Photo: Polifish/FIS

'Turkish Salmon' Gains Ground in International Markets Backed by Aquaculture Expertise

TURKEY
Monday, June 23, 2025, 01:00 (GMT + 9)

Rainbow Trout Exports Reach Record Figures, Though Facing Sustainability Challenges and Local Opposition

TRABZON – From his spacious office overlooking the Black Sea, Tayfun Denizer, general manager of Polifish, cannot hide his satisfaction: raising rainbow trout in submerged cages has made him a wealthy man. "Our exports surged from $500,000 in 2017 to $86 million last year. This is just the beginning," said Denizer, referring to what is marketed as "Turkish salmon."

The production of trout in Turkey, mostly destined for export, has experienced exponential growth in the last decade, in line with global demand for salmon. Last year, the country exported more than 78,000 tons of trout raised in the Black Sea waters, a figure 16 times higher than in 2018. This generated almost $498 million for Turkish producers, a number expected to increase, though still far from the $12.8 billion netted by Norwegian salmon and trout giants in the same year.

Keys to Success and Market Challenges

Russia has emerged as the main destination for "Turkish salmon" exports, accounting for 74.1% of the total, following the ban on Norwegian salmon in 2014. It is followed by Vietnam (6%), Belarus, Germany, and Japan. Stale Knudsen, an anthropologist at Bergen University (Norway) and a specialist in Black Sea fishing, attributes the "spectacular success" of trout to Turkey's experience and technology in farming sea bass and sea bream, a field in which it leads Europe. The availability of an accessible and nearby market like Russia's was crucial.

Turkish producers have also benefited from the country's large number of reservoirs, where the fish are raised for several months before being transferred to the Black Sea. There, the water temperature—which stays below 18 degrees Celsius between October and June—allows the fish to reach 2.5 to 3 kilograms by the time they are harvested. Finally, a decisive factor is the price. "Our 'salmon' is about 15 to 20 percent cheaper than Norwegian salmon," explained Ismail Kobya, deputy general manager of Akerko, a sector heavyweight. "The species may be different, but in terms of taste, color, and flesh quality, our fish is superior to Norwegian salmon, according to our Japanese clients," Kobya told Agence France-Presse (AFP). His company holds an Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC) certification for responsible farming practices.

Sustainability and Local Concerns

Despite the boom, the rapid expansion of trout aquaculture is not without criticism. Knudsen notes that while many Turkish producers have obtained certifications like ASC in the last two years, he does not believe such labels are always a guarantee of sustainability. A 2024 study by researchers from a Turkish institute had already raised concerns that "the rapid growth of the trout farming sector... led to an uncontrolled decline in the survival rate" of the fish.

Polifish, which also holds an ASC certification, acknowledged some mortality of fish stocks. "When the fish are small, their immune systems aren't fully working," said Talha Altun, the company's deputy general manager. For his part, Kobya of Akerko stated: "In our Black Sea cages, the mortality rate is lower than five percent, but these are farming operations and anything can happen."

The fish farms, visible from the shore, have drawn the wrath of local fishermen, who are worried about the cages, which have a 50-meter diameter. Mustafa Kuru, head of a fishermen's union, is a vocal opponent of a farming project that has been set up in his fishing zone. "The cages block the movement of the fish and they start leaving the area," he lamented. Kuru indicated that the scarcity of fish stocks in the area has already forced two boats from his port to cast their nets much further afield, off the western coast of Africa. "If the fish leave, our boats will end up going to rack and ruin in our ports," he warned.

Source: Agence France-Presse (AFP)

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